Common Home Concerns: Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI)

Ground fault circuit interrupters are supersensitive circuit breakers that monitor the electrical current flowing in the hot (black) and neutral (white) wires of a circuit. If the current flow in both wires is the same, everything is functioning properly. If, however, more current flows in one wire than the other, there’s current leakage to ground. A GFCI can sense any current difference and cut off the power to the circuit within 1/40th of a second. This could save your life because a continuous flow through your body could be lethal. You are particularly vulnerable when on wet ground or in a damp bathroom.

Considerations
GFCIs are available for residential use in several forms: in a wall receptacle, in a circuit breaker or in a portable outlet unit. GFCIs are now required for all new construction receptacles near a water source such as at exterior, garage, bathroom and kitchen locations. Whirlpools, spas and swimming pools also require GFCI protection. While GFCI’s may not have been required at the time of original construction, the HouseMaster Technical Staff recommends their installation in appropriate areas of all homes.


Common Home Concerns: Roof Ventilation

Adequate ventilation of unconditioned attics is essential to avoid excessive heat or moisture build-up. In warm weather, such build-up in the attic can shorten the service life of the roofing and increase living area temperatures. In many areas, summer heat also means high humidity. This can ultimately lead to mildew and fungi growth and even sheathing decay. Even in cold weather, moisture in the air can condense out onto the cold roof sheathing eventually causing sheathing damage.

Consideration
While it is essential to provide adequate ventilation by passive means such as soffit vents as well as ridge and gable vents, forced venting may be advantageous in some cases. A wind turbine ventilator can be added for a low cost boost to airflow. Electric attic exhaust fans are more effective at replacing the hot humid attic air with cool outside air. Thermostatic controls are provided for these units; in certain situations, a humidistat may also be needed. The HouseMaster Technical Staff advises homeowners to ensure that adequate intake air provisions are also provided for any ventilation system, otherwise air flow will not be efficient.

Aluminum Wiring

The use of aluminum wiring is common practice in many areas (especially in the Phoenix area) for major appliances such as kitchen ranges and electric dryers. (which are run on 220-volt circuitry)

While aluminum connections in general, have a greater potential to come loose or exhibit other problems than copper, the concern is NOT as great on major appliance circuits as it would be if the wiring were on older 110-volt household circuits. There are several reasons for this lower level of concernwith 220-volt circuitry:

    1.  Normally there are only two connection points in the circuit ? at the appliance and at the distribution panel; Multi-stranded conductors are used

    2.  The connection points or lugs are of a different design than that found in a household receptacle

    3.  The wire connection usually is straight without a sharp bend or crimp

    4.  The heavier wire used does not bend or crimp as easily as the smaller gauge wire some crimping is less to be an issue

    5.  Oxide inhibitors can be applied to the exposed wire at the terminals to cut down on oxidation

    6.  Major appliances and their currents are more likely installed by qualified professional electricians, whereas household wiring is often installed or worked on by apprentices or homeowners

In any case, it would be a good idea to have all aluminum connections checked periodically as a precautionary measure.


Fluorescent-Style Lightbubs that go into Regular Lamps

The fluorescent-type bulb, once only seen in commercial applications, has gained in residential popularity due to its low operating cost and the natural illumination now available with modern bulbs. Traditional fluorescent bulbs are straight 24- or 48-inch long tubes.

Now circular, U-shaped, short, thin and any number of configurations are available, including ones to replace standard incandescent bulbs in many household lamps. Colors range from cool blues, to full spectrum white, to warm tones.

Fluorescents spread light evenly and are more energy efficient, providing up to five times the light of an equivalent wattage incandescent. They do not produce much heat, last a long time (10,000 to 20,000 hours), and are about four times more economical to run than incandescent lamps.

All fluorescent bulbs or tubes operate in a similar manner. Two filaments, a small transformer, a ballast, a starter (if needed), and gas sealed in the bulb, combine to do the trick. Current which flows between the filaments, releases electricity to send an arc of ultraviolet light through the gas-field bulb. This light becomes visible as it filters through the phosphorous coating on the bulb. The ballast then acts as a step-down transformer to control the electric current.

 

 

 

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